How to rebuild a hydraulic cylinder on a case backhoe
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Case or Ford Backhoe Cylinder Tool Set Gland nut wrench, U-seal installer, picks
Welcome to HeavyEquipmentForums. Joined: Jan 30, Messages: 1, Location: michigan. My rear tire size is I am getting her ready to split it this winter and hopefully fix some stuff. I am pretty sure the lines are close with them in the down position but no rubbing. I can get you a measurement after i put it back together but that won't be for a while.
As far as a challenge i have also been helping my neighbor with a b he just bought and the biggest thing i am finding with these older machines is that people didn't keep up with the maintenance on them which starts out as little problems at first but leads to major problems later.
Mine and my neighbors were left outside and i have seen more water in oil than i care to. We both have barns so now thats where they live now.
If i didnt have the barn it would be tarped with a quality tarp. Over the past 3 years I have been bringing it back to life concentrating on the major stuff working my way to the minor stuff im hoping after this split the majors are done. But up to this point i have worked the heck out of this and it has handled anything i have asked of it.
They work so hard i swear somedays mine talks and its saying I want to go longer and im saying im beat down and done for the day, but for me its awesome knowing you can quit for the day and it survived a day of removing stumps,pushing trees,or digging a basement and it literally outworks you.
Thanks for the lead on Dale i will keep him in mind when i get there. I am curious about the gauge on your hydraulic filter housing mine had a plug in it i have since put a old pressure gauge in mine but i would like a original can you send a good pic of yours so i know what im looking for.
If i can help with anything else on yours feel free to ask. Joined: Apr 12, Messages: Location: Virginia. Yep, thats the size I just bought The outriggers are too close in my opinion, but thats from years of operators forgetting and leaving the legs down as they try to back up, and mine are probably bent a bit toward the tires. I will try adding some washers and moving the hose connection inward a couple inches.
Since I still have the backhoe disconnected, now is the time to make the hose adjustments. Yep, lack of maintenance and leaving the tractor outside in the elements do their toll. I would like to build a shed high enough to get the tractor in, and that means a door about 10 feet high.
In the mean time, I try to use some old heavy duty pool liner pieces or tarps to keep the weather off, and try to cover all the hydraulic cylinders. These old s are built pretty stout, and as long as we dont kill them due to lack of maintenance, we should be able to put them in our Wills and pass them down a few generationsKubota manufactures tractors, mowers and light to medium-duty construction equipment.
Several of their vehicles have moving parts, such as scoops or buckets. The driver operates these hydraulic components, but the actual movement and power is ultimately created by hydraulic cylinders. Kubota hydraulic cylinders operate like any other hydraulic cylinders.
They have the same parts, so they can be rebuilt in the same way. To make the rebuilding process easier, reseal kits are available that contain every internal seal that needs to be replaced to rebuild a Kubota hydraulic cylinder. Unscrew any caps or plugs from the cylinder's fluid ports and drain all the hydraulic fluid from the cylinder.
Clamp the cylinder in a bench vise and extend the piston rod fully. Unscrew the head, or gland from the rod end of the cylinder. You will probably need to use a gland wrench to do this. Clamp the piston rod in carefully in a vise. You should use a vise with soft jaws that won't damage the polished surface of the piston rod. Unscrew the nut holding the piston to the rest of the rod assembly, then slide the piston, the head and any other parts off of the cylinder rod.
Remove all the seals from the piston, head and other parts with a seal removal tool. Then clean them with a safe, petroleum-based solvent, and inspect them for gouges and scratches. Replace any heavily damaged parts. Slide the gland, piston and any other applicable parts back onto the piston rod in their original configurations.
Tighten the piston nut to its manufacturer-specified torque with a calibrated torque wrench. Slide the piston rod assembly back into the cylinder barrel. Tighten the gland nut onto the cylinder barrel. Michael Signal began writing professionally inwith his work appearing on eHow. He has expert knowledge in aviation, computer hardware and software, elementary education and interpersonal communication. He has been an aircraft mechanic, business-to-business salesman and teacher.
He holds a master's degree in education from Lesley University.
Share It. Material Moving Automotive Body and About the Author. Copyright Leaf Group Ltd.Randy has years of experience dealing with all sorts of hydraulic repairs on farm and industrial equipment. A tractor backhoe or front end loader is one of the handiest pieces of equipment used on the farm or on a construction site. These fine machines use a variety of hydraulic cylinders for lifting, digging, moving earth, digging ditches, and many other construction uses.
Occasionally these hydraulic cylinders need to be rebuilt because of leaking seals around the piston rod. Having a repair shop do this for you can run into quite a bit of money and also cause a long wait while the hydraulic cylinders are being rebuilt for you. This article is intended to help you rebuild and repair the backhoe hydraulic cylinders on your particular machine. Even if you are not experienced in this type of hydraulic repair, this article will guide you through the steps needed to rebuild the backhoe hydraulic cylinders yourself.Locking Pin Hydraulic Cylinder
Finding the correct hydraulic cylinder building kit is the first step in the rebuilding process. Some backhoes and front end loaders may use several different makes of hydraulic cylinders to perform the same function on your particular machine. The Case C backhoe being repaired in this article is a prime example of such an instance and is therefore a perfect example for explaining the hydraulic cylinder rebuild process.
The Case C backhoe stabilizing jack being repaired listed two different rebuild kits for the hydraulic cylinder used to work the jacks.
One has a one piece piston while the other used a two piece piston. It is very important to get the right hydraulic cylinder rebuild kit before starting the repair job. Once you disassemble the hydraulic cylinder you do not want to wait for the correct kit to arrive. The correct part number is usually stamped into the gland of the hydraulic cylinder.
Getting the correct rebuild kit should pose no problem if this part number can be found intact and readable. Even if you can only read some of the numbers the right rebuild kit can usually be found.
You may find this kit online or through a tractor dealership. Safety is an important factor in rebuilding hydraulic cylinders, so be careful and do not hurry the job. Always take time to study the parts you remove if you don't have a schematic of the parts. After removing the yoke from the stabilizing jack stand by pulling the retaining pins, drop the jack to the ground and place a board or some other non metal object beneath the cylinder to keep it steady and to prevent dirt from getting on the parts.
It is important to not scratch the piston rod or other parts of the assembly. A marred piston rod will cause the new seals to wear quickly.
The gland on this particular hydraulic cylinder uses a common four hole system for removing and replacing the gland in the cylinder itself. You may purchase a tool made just for this job, and there are a couple on this page, but since I have the tools and metal I prefer to make my own. Each hydraulic cylinder, or tandem cylinders may use a different size gland removal tool which runs into quite a bit of money if you buy them.
By making your own you will eventually have a complete set. I make my gland removal tools from old plow points, case hardened bolts which fit the holes, and a piece of sturdy pipe. An acetylene torch and arc welder is used to shape the tool and weld in the prongs made from the bolts. Before attempting to remove the gland, loosen the hydraulic lines to allow fluid pressure to release and prevent a vacuum, making removal of the piston more difficult. After completion of the gland removal tool, it is a simple matter of unscrewing the gland from the cylinder and removing the piston rod from the cylinder itself.
Extending the hydraulic cylinder to its full length before removing the gland will save you the trouble of having to pull the piston rod very far to remove it. Use a sturdy point to attach the piston rod yoke to in order to unscrew the retaining bolt from the piston rod. I normally use the original yoke connection if possible. Since a thread locking substance is used to keep the retaining bolt from vibrating loose a very dangerous occurrence it may be necessary to heat the end of the retaining bolt before you can get it to break free from the threads.Log in or Sign up.
Heavy Equipment Forums. Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums. Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy.
Thank you! Thank you for joining Heavy Equipment Forums! If you are new to forums we communicate with "Threads", please search our threads to see if your topic may have already been answered and if not then click "Post New Thread" in the appropriate forum.
This will allow all of our members to see your question and give you the best chance to be answered. After you've made a number of posts you will graduate to Full Member status where you'll see a few more privileges. Following these guidelines will help make this the best resource for heavy equipment on the net. Thanks for joining us and I hope you enjoy your stay!!
Welcome to HeavyEquipmentForums. Does anyone know if the rear control valve can be rebuilt while it's still on the machine? Our machine is leaking out around the spools on the boom swing valve. Hoping it just needs new seals and o rings.
BTW I have a manual on the way. TLR15Apr 14, Also how do I release pressure on the system before disassembly other than lowering backhoe to the ground. Joined: Feb 17, Messages: 1, Location: wilmington nc. After shut down move all levers to release pressure on the system, you can due a lot of it on the machine, if it's leaking between the sections it has to come out. Don't use hardware store O rings for replacements.
Get genuine Case O rings, they have a specific dimensions for those spools. If you do remove the valve body from the machine replace all the o rings in all the sections.
If you don't you will be doing it again. TinkererApr 14, Thanks for the advice tinkerer. I agree. Do 'em all once. Joined: Jan 15, Messages: Location: pennsylvania.
On a C the job is not complete unless the secondary valves and the load checks under thems orings are renewed as they are prone to the orings disappearing completely causing interaction between the systemsie swinging when another circuit is pressurized or any other circuit moving without lever movement.
As another stated, only Case replacements should be used as they are specially engineered for the application. Everything but section split can be done on machine but you will be very oiled up when finished, the boom will have to be moved side to side at allow all spools to be dropped. DirtyHoe likes this.
I do one section at a time, the boom can be supported and moved manually. Thanks for the info. TLR15Apr 15, Joined: Feb 22, Messages: 85 Location: Maine.Originally Posted by kthompson view First welcome to TP and I like the description of where you live! Same here.
How to Disassemble, Rebuild or Repair Hydraulic Cylinders and FAQS
To me the obvious items which should have been checked are: fluid level, f Click to Post a New Message! Post: To me the obvious items which should have been checked are: fluid level, filters, pump supply and pressure, the steering cylinder sthe steering control valve and verify the correct oil in system. Also no water in oil nor air leak in the suction side.
But the not working properly, can you give a better description? Does it do it all the time? Does it change as the tractor gets hot? What is it doing? Just thinking, have you jacked up the front axle and checked to see if the steering is binding? You have one of the front wheels not turning as they should creating extra pressure on the system.
I would think the hoses are rather straight forward however having worked with a heavy equipment company we would have the steering systems, controlled by a hyd motor and if hosed wrong the wheel would spin very fast and with major power ripped a person arm off, so be careful but think there was one way it worked but poorly.
Man that has been 30 plus years ago. Check the full steering system to be sure all hoses are connected to the proper port.
Then there is possible blockage in a hose. Have a blessed day. First is why did the hose blow? Do you have any idea? Could it have been defect in hose or pressure too high on the hose? Only reasons I know pressure could be too high is pressure setting is not right or relief valve not working.
Not likely the new pump is pumping higher enough pressure to blow the hose is it? It is possible when the hose blew a piece of that hose was blown into the system.
If you are sure all hoses are routed to correct fitting and you find no restriction in a hose it must be pump, valve or such issue. Guess it could be steering cylinder s. Possible a hose is being pinched when using the tractor?
I hooked up cylinder on my boom mower the other day and it would not work other than just a tiny bit. Started off with more movement and got less and less and I worked it. I looked and looked trying to find what was binding it. It is connected with quick disconnects and finally realized I have it hooked to two different valves. Realized it only when the other cyl that was suppose to be disconnected still worked some.
Do give full details of how it is working and hope an expert will chime in. More details the better.You've come to the right place. We sell a wide range of new aftermarket, used and rebuilt B replacement hydraulic cylinders to get your machine back up and running quickly.
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Why Choose Us We pride ourselves on growing a partnership with our customers built on trust and great service.I just pulled the main boom cylinders off a komatsu excavator to have them resealed. I don't have the time to do it myself so I dropped them off at the local hydraulic shop today and asked what they were gonna charge me. I think I heard my jaw hit the floor. This is the first time I have paid to have someone else do this for me, is this a normal charge? Just wondering what others have expierenced.
On the bigger cylinders On the odd occasion they will spin off After heating 'bucket ram' and with sufficient leverage to smash a six inch vise, a vise that was bolted to a steel work bench I did not know there was a difference.
It sounds like I would not have been able to deal with it anyway if you have to get it that tight. Keep trying determined, you'll get it. We'll see if your handle is real or fake now.
Case or Ford Backhoe Cylinder Tool Set Gland nut wrench, U-seal installer, picks
The 2 shop cut the rod to get packing off, unknown to me when they welded it back it was off just enough I couldn't get the pin in. I would suggest if anyone is looking for hyd repair shop to ask if they have the eq.
Hope this post ok--thanks for the support Dave Mcallistereldon. I knew you could do it!! Your handle is real! Welcome to the board also. If I had a jack that someone cut the rod in two trying to repair it, I believe I would go and reseal them. I would assume these folks didn't get any more of yours. I would have been tempted to send them the bill for repair. Archived This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.
Start new topic. Recommended Posts. Posted April 12, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites. Posted April 15, Posted April 16, Keep trying determined, you'll get it We'll see if your handle is real or fake now.
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